|Ordering cocktails at a restaurant, an American friend of ours once said, “I’m going to have to try the Sex on the Beach.” Without missing a beat, the waiter said, “OK, and to drink?”|
Here are some useful terms to know when ordering at Costa Rican restaurants.
Aderezo — salad dressing. Costa Ricans usually serve salad with no dressing (other than perhaps some lime), but you can always ask for it.
Bebidas — drinks. As in most countries, drinks are generally ordered first while diners look at the menu. Servers will often ask “¿Qué desean tomar?” or “What would you like to drink?”
Casado — traditional, inexpensive dish with beef, chicken, pork or fish, plus rice, beans, sweet plantains and chopped vegetables.
Entrada — appetizer. This word is easily confused with “entrée,” but entrée is “plato fuerte.”
Gallo Pinto — rice and beans served for breakfast, usually with eggs, fruit and toast.
La Cuenta, Por Favor — “Check, please.” Note that in Costa Rica it’s considered somewhat rude for servers to offer to bring you the check before you ask for it (as if they’re rushing you to leave). You can also request a check from afar by getting a server’s attention and using your hand to mime the act of writing.
Mascarilla — facemask. Under current coronavirus rules, you should wear a mask when you enter any business, though obviously you can take it off in a restaurant to eat and drink.
Naturales — non-alcoholic fruit drinks served at virtually all restaurants, made of piña (pineapple), sandía (watermelon), tamarindo (tamarind), cas (a type of guayava) and other fruits.
Plato Fuerte — literally meaning “strong dish,” this means entrée or main course.
Postre — dessert
Provecho — the Costa Rican way of saying “Bon appétit,” or “Enjoy the food.”
Soda — traditional, inexpensive Costa Rican restaurant. This does not mean a fizzy soft drink, which is a “gaseosa.”
Típico — traditional or regional, used to describe authentic Costa Rica food. Often translated “typical,” although in English “typical” usually means ordinary and uninteresting.
Great article, and so true to our experience! I picked up the “mud boots” after completing this hike, and have wonderful recollections every time I wear them. I’ve not really needed them since that day Diane and I hiked Rio Celeste.
13 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING RIO CELESTE COSTA RICA
If you’re reading this, you probably know the Rio Celeste is a magnificent blue river in Tenorio Volcano National Park of Costa Rica featuring a huge waterfall plummeting into a blue pool below. There are a few things you need to know before you visit like – Do I need hiking boots? How muddy is it? How to make sure the water is its signature blue when you visit. We compiled 13 things that you need to know before visit Rio Celeste.
HOW DO YOU GET TO RIO CELESTE?
Rio Celeste is located about halfway between Liberia and La Fortuna in North Central Costa Rica. It’s about 1 1/2 hours to either town. There is no bus service directly to Rio Celeste so you either have to have your own car ($5 parking), take a bus to Bijagua and taxi to the entrance ($30-40), or book a tour(~$115 including admission, guide, and lunch).
HOW IS THE ROAD TO RIO CELESTE?
We went in February of 2018, and the road was paved all the way to the park. Those horror stories you might have heard about needing a 4×4 or high clearance vehicle are a thing of the past. Any car can make it to Rio Celeste with ease.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO ENTER RIO CELESTE?
Entrance to Rio Celeste costs $12/ person and $5 to park. You will not need a guide for the hike but you might want to rent boots, but I’ll talk about that more in the mud section. The real cost to go to Rio Celeste is the transportation to get there.
HOW MUDDY IS THE HIKE TO RIO CELESTE?
In a word – mudderific. It was a mudtastophy. Yeah, pretty dang muddy. We went in early spring, and there was a reasonable amount of rain on the trip. I think the high season traffic causes a lot of mud to accumulate on the trail too. I would plan for mud and be pleasantly surprised if you found anything else. If your lodge has hiking sticks, you might bring one for the road, but I wouldn’t worry about bringing them to Costa Rica just for this hike.
CAN I / SHOULD I RENT BOOTS FOR RIO CELESTE
Renting boots from several vendors around the parking lot is possible. I went in my Chaco sandals, and it was kind of annoying. They were about done for after the hike, so I left them behind in the parking lot after I finished in case anyone wanted to salvage them. If you have a pair of boots that you are bringing anyway, that you are willing to get dirty, you should be ok. It is only $5 to rent boots, well worth not having to worry about footwear.
HOW FAR IS THE HIKE TO RIO CELESTE WATERFALL?
The waterfall is 1.5 km from the parking area. What’s more, this hike is relatively flat and even paved in sections. There is significantly less mud here than the trail past the falls. It’s about 150 m down to the waterfall or 327 steps.
IS IT WORTH HIKING PAST THE RIO CELESTE WATERFALL?
Maybe. We had people in our group hike past, and others stay behind. Everybody was happy with their decision. If you are doing ok with the mud, and feel ok after climbing up from the falls, definitely push on. If you really think you should turn back, then turn back. Let your body be your guide but know that there are some cool things to be seen.
WHY DOES THE RIO CELESTE LOOK BLUE?
Folklore says Rio Celeste is blue because god dipped his paintbrush in the water when he was painting the sky. Science says it’s because of a high concentration of aluminosilicate particles with a small diameter in Buenavista River that aggregate when they reach the low ph of Sour Creek. The suspended particles produce Mie scattering which gives the river a beautiful turquoise color.
IS RIO CELESTE ALWAYS BLUE?
No, if there is fast moving water or mud in suspension, the river will no longer be blue. It’s worth checking a day or two ahead of time to make sure Rio Celeste is, in fact blue. The good news is that this only happens a couple of days out of the year, so you’re probably going to be ok, but your tour guide or hotel concierge/host can double check for you.
CAN YOU SWIM IN RIO CELESTE?
Yes and no. You can not swim or enter the water anywhere inside of Tenorio Volcano National Park. There were some fatalities caused by the hydraulics, and deep pool from the waterfall. That coupled with all the mud from all of the tourist’s boots would cause the water to lose its blue, and in essence lose its charm and allure. That said, there are no restrictions once the river leaves the park. There is a swimming hole by the bridge near Rio Celeste Hideaway Hotel or you can pay $6 per person at Piruri Cabinas to swim in the river.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HIKE RIO CELESTE?
In total, it’s a 3.7 mile (6 km) round trip. Expect to spend about 3-5 hours depending on fitness and mud. In fact, go ahead and plan for 5 hours and be pleased if you get out a little early.
WHAT ARE THE TENORIO VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK HOURS?
The park opens at 8:00 and you need to be on the trail by 2:00. Come early because only 1,200 people are allowed in the park on any day and only 400 people at any time. It can get super crowded during the peak season in spring.
OUR EXPERIENCE AT RIO CELESTE
We went to Rio Celeste as part of our Costa Rica adventure trip. The jungle trail was a bit of a disappointment. It was wide, muddy, with a lot of downed trees. Any hint of disappointment vanished when we reached the falls. The main falls looked surprisingly similar to Havasu Falls, even though the blue in Havasu is from calcite.
We were so happy that we pushed on to the end of the trial. Laguna Azul looked like something out of a fairy tale. I could not believe how suddenly the water turned blue at the confluence with Sour Creek. The more I looked, the more surreal it was.
I would strongly encourage everybody with a vehicle who likes nature to check this out. It’s well worth the $20 or so per person you will spend. It’s a little out of the way, but you can tack it on to a trip between La Fortuna and Monteverde or Liberia. If you’re thinking about taking a guided tour at the $100+ price point, it might be worth it. Rio Celeste gets a 4.5 star ranking on Tripadvisor because it’s a truly unique experience. When a park has to limit entrance to 1200 people at a time, it says something.
A typical tourist visit to Monteverde involves a large bus with a yellow “turismo” placard attached to the back. The bus delivers its occupants to one of the several large hotels in the area, then later deposits those same travelers at one of several tourist-centric restaurants. The following morning the bus takes the group to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve for a guided hike down its world-famous paths.
There may or may not be another outing, another dinner and one or two more nights at the hotel but, one way or another, the bus and its occupants soon depart the mountain for their next stop, which is often Lake Arenal.
The occupants of the bus can say, correctly, that they visited Monteverde. They don’t realize it, but they actually passed through, perhaps even stayed in, one or two other towns during their time in Monteverde, which is actually a community and not a formal town.
When the Quakers from the United States and Europe moved to this zone in the 1950s they settled in the area formally known as Cerro Plano (Flat Hill). Lucille “Lucky” Guindon, one of those Quaker settlers, believes the greater area was originally called Cerro Plano because hunters down in the nearby, steep-walled San Luis Valley enjoyed its relatively flat expanse.
Ms. Guindon also explains that while the Quaker settlers named their community Monteverde — one word — somewhere along the way, likely inspired by the tourist traffic, the Costa Rican government re-named the larger district Monte Verde (two words).
Soon after their arrival, the Quakers erected their Meeting House and school, and also created a factory to produce cheese and generate income. Most importantly, in the early 1970s, the Quakers agreed to lease a significant amount of land they’d previously set aside to protect the area’s watershed. The new purpose of that land? Helping to form the Monteverde Reserve.
The population of the Monteverde community is relatively sparse (less than 800 versus around 7,000 for the greater Monte Verde district), with much of the land devoted to working farms and a variety of other large, residential properties. Many of these belong to members and descendants of the original Quaker group. Although there are far fewer businesses in this area, those that operate predominantly cater to tourists, which means that while most of the residents readily speak Spanish, it is also very common to hear English.
It is not possible to venture to the unpaved roads of Monteverde without first traveling through Santa Elena: 606 is the connector from the north or south. Santa Elena, which is located on the opposite side of the district, is different from Monteverde in many ways. Unlike the large, comfy tour buses that frequent Monteverde, Santa Elena is frequented by the crowded tourist vans as well as a continuous stream of backpackers who walk from the public bus station just up the hill to one of its many hostels.
Santa Elena is where business is done. A hair dresser and a veterinary clinic are positioned close to the municipal building. There are two large grocery stores, three pharmacies, several hardware stores, the post office, three banks, several bars and, of course, the Costa Rican Electricity Institute (ICE) office. Unlike Monteverde, the roads in the town square — which is actually a series of one-way streets that form a triangle — are paved.
The lots in Santa Elena are smaller, akin to what is found in much of San José. Unlike Monteverde, there are sidewalks throughout the downtown area and even a couple of stop signs, though it is wise not to count on everyone abiding by that fact. Catholicism is the dominant religion in this part of the district, and there is both an “old” Catholic Church and a “new” one — a super-sized structure that at this point is still in need of walls and a floor.
Santa Elena is the “Monteverde” that first greets backpackers and budget travelers. Tickets to all of the attractions in the area, including the many parks offering zip-lining, are sold by any number of businesses. Hint: those stating that they are the “official” source of tickets do so because 20% of the sale price goes back to them as the seller. The 20% commission is a large source of revenue for a variety of operations and, no, tourists do not receive a discount if they go directly to the attraction to buy their tickets.
Santa Elena is therefore a melting pot, though many of the ingredients are temporary. While there is quite a bit of English, French, German and other languages spoken, there are also many Ticos. Tourists who get accustomed to bilingual staff at the hotels and hostels quickly find that, quite understandably, the employees of the banks, hardware stores and most of the other local businesses speak only Spanish. There is a sprinkling of inhabitants from abroad, but the vast majority of the permanent residents here are Costa Rican.
As you leave Santa Elena on the main road, 620, and head towards Monteverde proper. you’ll briefly find yourself in a town sandwiched between the two: Cerro Plano. This is the portion of the original Cerro Plano that wasn’t part of the Quaker purchase. It has a number of hotels and restaurants, though not as many as Santa Elena. The housing in Cerro Plano is a mix of small lots as well as several larger plots.
Here, too, the bulk of the permanent residents are Tico, but there are immigrants who have settled here permanently — so much so that one spot is informally named “Gringo Hill.” There is also an ever-changing group of visiting teachers who teach in one of the district’s three bilingual private schools, and students who take advantage of the many homestay opportunities in Cerro Plano.
It is easy to miss that fact that you’re in Cerro Plano. To some degree, this is because of its position between Santa Elena and Monteverde. The primary lack of name recognition, however, comes from the fact that many of its larger businesses present themselves to the world as being part of Monteverde. Two of the larger, more luxurious hotels in the district are located in Cerro Plano, but all references to their location on their websites and brochures simply state “Monteverde.” “Green mountain” is apparently a better branding option than “flat hill,” and, unlike both Santa Elena and Monteverde, there is no reserve to tout in Cerro Plano.
With all the differences, it’s surprising but true that the distance from bustling, crowded downtown Santa Elena to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is roughly six kilometers — and 300 meters of additional elevation. By car or bus this distance passes relatively quickly, though the unpaved portion will make you drive slowly whether you like it or not. It’s worth noting that up until the past decade, much of the traffic was by horseback.
Part of what makes the larger community unique is the spirit of cooperation between these residents with diverse ethnicities, religions and languages. However, as in any community, issues do exist. Whatever displeasure a portion of the Quaker community may feel about their conservation efforts being converted into tourism is matched by members of the Tico community who believe that local miners inhabited the area at the time of the Quaker purchase, with indigenous groups pre-dating the miners. They do not appreciate the notion that Monteverde was created by Quakers.
Those debates are not easily settled and are seldom heard in public, and the vast majority of residents of one town or community do embrace the presence and contributions of the others. This also extends to neighboring communities such as San Luis, Cañitas, La Cruz among others.
If you find yourself in any of these spots, be aware that there are many ways to explore the natural beauty of the area. Don’t be afraid to ask a local about the whereabouts of a good trail or scenic overlook, and have at least a general understanding of the geography and the location of the various communities.
Cabs are generally available, but you’ll save yourself time, money and aggravation if you understand up front that Santa Elena is the gateway to the majority of the adventure parks; a hotel stay in Cerro Plano makes the majority of potential destinations in the district walkable; and Monteverde is known for natural beauty and the Quaker community, but has nothing to offer in terms of a post office, bank or pharmacy.
Palo Verde National Park: A private ranch’s loss is the world’s gain
I signed in at the entrance of Palo Verde National Park and drove down the main dirt road, wondering if I’d accidentally wandered onto a private ranch. It is an understandable sentiment as the 45,000-plus acres that make up the park were indeed a private ranch up until the mid-1970s, when the land was expropriated by the Costa Rican government.
As I puttered along, dodging iguanas that seemed too emboldened — or too comfortable — to move, I thought through what I had read about the park. I knew I was going to see birds, dry tropical forest, the Tempisque River and, hopefully, crocodiles. I also knew that I was going to be hot. I was not disappointed on any of these fronts.
After an interesting 15-minute drive I arrived at the biological station operated by the Organization for Tropical Studies. OTS operates in the park under an agreement with the Environment Ministry (MINAE). OTS offers accommodations which are typically used by visiting students and researchers.
The guide on duty, Gustavo Rodríguez González, 31, from Cañas, checked me in and confirmed that he was available for a free guided tour of the park later in the afternoon. I am not accustomed to hearing the words “guided” and “free” in the same sentence so I confirmed that my poor Spanish and I had interpreted this correctly. I had.
Gustavo showed my around the OTS facility, which features an office, dormitories and a kitchen/mess hall. I immediately found a friend in the chef, Romelio Campos Jiménez of Sarapiquí. I was fortunate that my visit would end a day before a group of 70 students arrived, so I was able to spend time with don Romelio, Gustavo and other employees as we all shared a table for lunch.
As both a compliment and a warning, the food is excellent, and in the form of a buffet with no limits to the number of trips you can take. Gustavo and I both lamented this fact a few times during my stay as we patted our overfull bellies. There is also a large cooler that dispenses cold water — not as filling but very necessary in the heat.
Prior to my tour I walked over to the observation pier that extends out into the wetlands and was confused by what I saw. Why was a small herd of cattle roaming freely in the wetlands among the whistling ducks? I would learn more about that later. I also discovered that I should have brought something other than a telephoto lens, as much of the wildlife followed the style of the iguanas and were loath to move away.
Since I’m not a biologist, or any other kind of scientist, my conversations with Gustavo during our tour were limited to keen insights like, “It’s strange that the iguanas don’t seem scared of people.”
Gustavo smiled and dead-panned, “That’s because we don’t eat them here.”
This is true, but I also later learned that, for tracking purposes, researchers have tagged a number of the iguanas with beads that are pierced into their backs. I suppose that an involuntary piercing is better than being eaten, but, personally, I’d still run.
We used my car for the free tour, which was good, as there was a lot of ground to cover. It was even better when the guide turned to me and asked if my car had four-wheel-drive and, if so, if I’d like to drive out onto the muddy path recently cleared by heavy equipment.
One does not say no to this kind of opportunity. I don’t suggest trying this in a rental car, or without permission and accompaniment of a guide. If you do use a rental car, you’re going to need to plan ahead as to where you can find a lavacar (car wash) and practice your best vacant stare so you’re prepared when the rental car agent asks you why there’s mud and grass glued to the bottom.
We slid down the muddy trail cut through a huge field of cattails and eventually stopped about 100 meters shy of a small lake tucked away between some limestone hills. The shallow lake, which is called Laguna Bocana, is home to a population of crocodiles that abandon it when it dries up in favor of caves in those nearby hills (another reason to avoid spelunking). One of the resident researchers has been studying these crocodiles for nearly four years. Unfortunately, last week’s unexpected early end to the dry season compelled the crocs to return to the once again water-filled lake, so the cave study will have to wait.
Over the next couple of days I was able to take in the various trails on my own and saw far more wildlife than I’d expected. Several of the trails go up into the hills, and it is well worth the modest effort of the hikes to take in the differences in the forest and, of course, the view.
My final morning I shared a guided boat tour of the Tempisque River. My companion, a different Gustavo — from Spain — is an avid birder who has traveled all over the world in search of different species. He and the captain/guide had detailed conversations about the various birds we encountered. Much of these discussions were lost on me, but when we stepped back onto the dock Gustavo confirmed that it had been one of his better outings.
All the OTS staff, the independent researchers and the boat captain insisted that however much I had enjoyed the fauna and flora at the park in the dry season, it was nowhere near the quality of the wildlife I would find in the wet season (June through November). I agreed to come back and will likely bring my whole family, though I will have to search our youngest son’s pockets at the end for any iguanas he has attempted to adopt.
I also learned that these delicate ecosystems within Palo Verde face a number of significant challenges from the past and present activities of their human neighbors. The cows, for example, are allowed to roam alongside the ducks as part of an effort to free the wetlands from the tenacious grasp of typha (cattails). In addition to the cows, park staff uses heavy equipment to try to uproot and kill the typha. The work is never done, as each long, brown tail of a typha plant contains roughly 250,000 seeds. These efforts have gone on for a number of years and are not without controversy.
The crocodile population in the river is also at risk. The percentage of male vs. female crocs, which should be roughly 50/50, is severely tilted towards the males. Researchers are studying potential causes for this problem. Is it global-warming-induced temperature variations for the crocodile eggs within the nests? Is it instead discharges from the tilapia farms up-river which use chemicals to promote sex changes in the fish, as male tilapia are larger and male-only populations are more profitable? Whether or not this practice and how it is being administered locally has any impact on the crocs or the river is something experts will have to decide.
The only sad element of our otherwise fantastic river tour was the never-ending line of dead fish floating among the leaves and branches — fish which are eaten by the birds and crocs. Here again there is no easy answer. The captain/guide feels it is linked to chemical runoff at up-river farming operations.
Ignoring these challenges won’t make them disappear. Visiting Palo Verde and spending money to support it and the research being conducted here can help, as will any subsequent efforts to tout its beauty and wonder to others. I will soon return to continue doing my part to help, and I encourage anyone interested in seeing and preserving this special place to do the same.
Monteverde: You can get there from here, but you’ll need some pura vida
“Excuse me. Could you tell us how much further it is to the Monteverde Reserve?”
I stopped my stroll along the dirt road and leaned down to try and see the driver. It was one of the ubiquitous Daihatsu rental cars optimistically advertised as full-sized with four-wheel drive.
I smiled past the lady in the passenger seat, who looked nervous, and accidentally locked eyes with the man behind the wheel, who looked frazzled. A bead of sweat trickled down his temple and he tried, and failed, to avoid flinching in response to the kicks that the two small children tethered into oversized car seats in the second row were delivering to the back of his seat.
I’d been this exact guy about five years ago on our first trip to Monteverde. It’s a long, hard drive, particularly with your entire family and related luggage squeezed into less space than is typically provided by a mini-fridge. His eyes spoke panic, so I tried to keep my response short and simple.
“A little more than three more kilometers that way.” I pointed in the same direction he was already headed down the bumpy dirt road.
The driver leaned towards me so that his head was just beneath his wife’s chin. “That can’t be right. We passed a sign about three kilometers ago that said it was only three more kilometers.”
I’d also been there and done exactly that. “You passed through the town of Guacimal on the way here?”
The woman, fighting for space, looked past her husband’s head at the directions in her lap. “Yes. And when we got back to the paved part of the road we veered right. That’s where we saw the sign.”
I knew the sign. We had often giggled about it and some of the other signage in the neighboring countryside, which, depending on your route, indicates that Monteverde is getting further away as you draw closer.
“I understand. The sign is wrong. You’re about three kilometers from the entrance.”
“Why wouldn’t they fix the sign? Isn’t this the biggest tourist attraction in the area?
He had a good point, but he wasn’t grasping the situation. Pura vida, as I’ve come to find out over the last couple of years, means that you should be happy the sign is pointing the right direction. The fact that somebody might have mixed up which sign should go where from a distance standpoint wasn’t really material.
I wanted to say that all the locals know where the Reserve is and, like cat skeletons up trees, permanently lost tourists don’t exist. It was all going to work out. I didn’t say any of this but instead took the advice of comedian Bill Burr, treating the situation like you’d treat a large, nervous rescue dog: slow, calm words and no sudden moves.
“Yes, that’s correct. Just keep driving the direction you’re going. Once you cross the bridge stay to the left and you’ll see more signs–”
The driver grabbed the directions from his wife. “What bridge? I don’t see a bridge!”
The lady, equally tired and cranky but also taking the rescue dog approach, gently pushed him back to his side of the car and took back the now crumpled piece of paper, which she extended out her window towards me
“Can you please just show us where we are?”
I winced as a large tourist bus full of grey-haired, well-heeled tourists honked at the stopped car and blew by on the wrong side of the dirt road. The honk made the kids stop screaming and kicking, at least for a second. Locals often jokingly refer to the posh tour buses as the “five thousand year buses” due to the collective age of those therein.
I bent down and looked at the map. I’d seen a lot of horrible, completely not-to-scale maps produced by the hostels and hotels in the area, but this one looked homemade (criollo, as we now say in our family).
She noticed my hesitation and smiled. “I did some research and put this together.”
In the background, the ever-antsy husband rolled his eyes.
I took one end of the piece of paper and tried to figure out her map. It mostly made sense, and I pointed to a spot at the beginning edge of what is called Monteverde. “You’re about here.”
She frowned. “I don’t understand. I thought we’d been driving through Monteverde for a while already.” She pointed to a spot further back on the map. “See, this is our hotel. And our hotel is in Monteverde.
This could have gone a variety of directions. I could’ve said that once the Quakers, who settled here in the 1950s and named their purchase Monteverde, leased a large portion of their land in the 1970s to help create what is now the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. Eventually local businesses started cashing in on the tourism angle and hotels and restaurants that weren’t particularly close to the Reserve and had nothing to do with conservation proudly announced that they were located in Monteverde.
Further, as I learned from Lucille “Lucky” Guindon (one of those early Quaker settlers), the Costa Rican government got in on the act and eventually named the entire district Monte Verde (though why they made it two words remains an unsolved mystery).
I could’ve said all of that, but the driver likely would have resorted to violence. Instead, I smiled and said, “Your hotel is actually in a small town called Cerro Plano. I know it’s confusing but all you have to do is drive about three more kilometers that way.” I again pointed the same direction they were already headed.
He wasn’t going for it and again tried to hog the map. “We’re going to have dinner tonight at this nice restaurant with gardens. They said they’re in Monteverde but it’s before our hotel — close to the sign that said three kilometers until the Reserve.”
“That’s actually Santa Elena,” I finished for him. “That’s the name of the larger town you first entered when you got back to the paved road.”
He looked with disgust at their homemade map. “So that’s not Monteverde?”
I gently pushed away from their car, smiling as I went. “Yes, at the end of the day it’s all now Monteverde.”
No one looked happy, and the kids began bickering in earnest. The man grumbled under his breath and put the car back in gear, grinding it a bit, like a lot of other folks who aren’t used to a stick shift.
She smiled at me and then turned as best she could to address the children. “If you don’t behave we won’t go to the Quaker Cheese factory for the tour and ice cream later on.”
I watched them drive off, fighting the impulse to let them know that the Quakers had sold the cheese factory to a Mexican company several years back, and the new owners had eliminated the tours — though you can still buy ice cream.
I continued my morning walk back towards our house, which is tucked away in the woods in the hamlet of Cerro Plano. Our move here was an unexpected development that evolved out of what was supposed to be a one-year sabbatical. I had been just like that driver: Type-A, rules-oriented, demanding.
Pura vida has not completely changed me, but I suspect the walking and the reduced stress level may gift me a few years I would otherwise not have seen — unless I end up getting run-over by one of the tourist buses flying by in the sidewalk-free portions of the Monte Verde district.
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